Leek Sauce for Pasta

An unusual sauce made from perfectly familiar ingredients. Gently flavored with fresh leeks, dreamy for pasta.

Have you ever had a dress -- a plain dress -- that just wears so easily, fits so comfortably, you wear it again and again?

That's how this oh-so-plain-looking plate of pasta strikes me: from its looks, there's no telling how gentle leek flavor drapes itself onto the pasta, hugging the legs and arms in all the right places; how it's something entirely new, and at the same time comfortable and familiar; how when the first pot was gone, I couldn't wait to copy the pattern and make another.

The technique is simple and it's all about the leek. The result isn't 'oniony' at all, it's quite creamy. In fact, truly, will I ruin the dreaminess of this dish by suggesting that -- despite using only 2 tablespoons of olive oil and a single ounce of cheese -- it's got an essence of mac 'n' cheese that makes me want to make a double or triple batch, plop it into a casserole dish, top it with bread crumbs and throw it in the oven for 30 minutes?

Yum.

ALANNA's TIPS I've learned to allow only two ounces of pasta (dried pasta, before being cooked) per serving, even though most recipes call for twice that. Calorie-wise, it's about where a serving should fall. Still, it's small by American standards and so I'd recommend serving this pasta with a big salad on the side so no one leaves the table hungry. It takes real will power, when pasta tastes this good, to eat a small portion. I recommend savoring every single (small) bite!
Kitchen Parade is written by second-generation food columnist Alanna Kellogg and features fresh, seasonal dishes for every-day healthful eating and occasional indulgences. Send a favorite recipe via recipes@kitchen-parade.com.
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QUICK SUPPER:
LEEK SAUCE for PASTA

Pasta hugged by a gentle leek sauce
Hands-on time: 30 minutes
Time-to-table: 40 minutes
Makes 1 1/2 cups sauce, plenty for 8 ounces of pasta
  • Big pot of well-salted water, enough for leeks and pasta both
    SAUCE
  • 3 large leeks, cleaned and trimmed (see how to clean leeks), yielding about 12 ounces white and light-green parts
  • Zest of a lemon
  • 1 tablespoon fresh basil (or another fresh herb, the inspiring recipe called for parsley, tarragon would be lovely)
  • 2 tablespoons good olive oil
  • Salt & pepper to taste
  • 8 ounces penne pasta (see TIPS)
  • 1 ounce grated Parmesan or another good cheese

Bring the water to a boil.

SAUCE After trimming, cut the leeks in half lengthwise. (Check for grit, they might need another rinse.) Drop the leek pieces into the boiling water and cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and rinse quickly under cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze gently to remove the excess water.

In a food processor, combine the cooked leeks, lemon zest, basil, olive oil until soft and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

PASTA As soon as the leeks are cooked, return the water to a boil. Cook the pasta until about 3/4 done. Scoop about 2 cups of leek water out of the pot, then drain the pasta.

COMBINE In the same big pot, combine the leek sauce and partially cooked pasta. Cook on quite high heat, stirring often, until the pasta finishes cooking, adding pasta water, 1/4 cup at a time, when the sauce gets dry. The sauce should coat the pasta but still be slightly liquid since the cheese will thicken it. Add the cheese and cook for just another minute. Serve immediately.

NUTRITION ESTIMATE Per Serving: 338 Cal; 11g Protein; 10g Tot Fat; 2g Sat Fat; 23g Carb; 7g Fiber; 132mg Sodium; 6mg Cholesterol; Weight Watchers 6 points This recipe has been 'Alanna-sized'. The nutrition estimate assumes use of the low-carb, low-glycemic pasta from Dreamfields Pasta.
Adapted from Red, White, and Greens: The Italian Way with Vegetables by Faith Willinger. My friend Anne from Kitchen Conservatory - congratulations for being named St. Louis' best place to take a cooking class again! - lent this cookbook some months ago, vowing that the leek sauce was a "must make". Was she ever right! I've now ordered my own copy, look for more recipes!

How to Clean Leeks

While growing, leeks gather grit inside the whorls so require careful cleaning before being chopped and cooked.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
• Step 1 | First, wash the entire leek under running water. Slice off the root end and discard. Peel off one or two layers of the tough outer leaves and set aside. Now slice the leek in two, just at the point where the leaves turn dark, leaving a white and light-green stalk about six inches long. (This stalk is what recipes mean when calling for 'leeks, white and light-green parts only'.) Set aside the dark green leaves.
• Step 2 | Cut the stalk in half, lengthwise. Gently separate the whorls, still keeping the stalk intact with your fingers. Wash the stalk under running water, letting water stream between the whorls. If the leek is particularly gritty, soak the whorls for a few minutes, then rinse again.
• Step 3 | Now take a look at the big section of dark leaves set aside. If you peel back a layer or two of these dark leaves, you'll find still more white and light-green parts. Chop this up and use it for cooking, too.
• Make stock now! | Wash the set-aside heavy outer leaves and the dark green leaves to make a very simple leek stock. For a more traditional stock, drop the leek leaves into water with a rib or two of celery, a carrot, a few peppercorns and a bay leaf. Bring to a boil and let simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain and use for soup or any recipe calling for vegetable or even chicken stock. The stock can be frozen, too.
• Make stock later! | If you don't have time to make stock right away, let the leaves dry, then toss into a freezer bag.

More Recipes Calling for Leeks

(hover for a description, click a photo for a recipe)
Spring Stuffing Cauliflower Risotto Vichyssoise
~ more leek recipes ~

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Your Comments:

I'm new to your page and it, so far, has helped me feed my husband and myself a Weight Watchers safe meal.

My question is, when serving pasta, if the recipe calls for 2 ounces pasta, is that cooked weight or dry?

Keep those recipes coming. Just love those zero point soups.
Anonymous Etie on 7/07/2008
 
Hi Etie,

Welcome! What a great clarification: I mean two ounces dry pasta, precooked.

Come back often!
Blogger Alanna on 7/07/2008
 
And it's not really oniony? The idea of an onion sauce is awful.
Anonymous Anonymous on 7/07/2008
 
When cooked, leeks turn creamy and only offer up a very gentle, sweet and perfectly delicious flavor. Oh I wish I could just hand you a forkful, right now, so you could taste for yourself!
Blogger Alanna on 7/07/2008
 
Thanks for the method for this. I was looking for something similar, and yours made the most sense.
I have a photo of the end result at my blog. Of course, I gave you credit :)
Anonymous Bob on 8/17/2008
 
Made it, ate it, loved it! This was my first time cooking with leeks and found this to be a deliciously easy recipe. Thanks!
Blogger Adam on 10/22/2009