Peach Un-Cobbler

The peach man at the farmers market and I have become friendly this summer. Twice a week, I stop in for a basket of his stand’s fat peaches, juicy orbs that fall off their pits when cut and drip onto your chin when bitten.

What’re you making today? he asks, knowing the likely answer, More cobbler. Every cook’s recipe collection should include at least one good cobbler. All the recipes start with a fruit base, some times peaches, often apples, pears or even apricots, occasionally mixed with berries.

Then the recipes diverge.

Most call for mounds of sweet biscuit baked on top, others for a coat of butter-laden, sugar-sweetened oatmeal or nuts or both. They are both so good but pack on calories.

The cobbler I’ve been longing for is one where the fruit can shine, one you might eat every day if you were careful, one with a small measure of crunch and richness.

And I found it.

Better still, I discovered Peach Uncobbler, all fruit, no topping, and deliciously virtuous. (Or would that be virtuously delicious?)

Try one, try both. Either way, your answer will become, More cobbler, please.

ALANNA's TIPS To easily cut the fruit, place the peach halves flatside down on a cutting board, then slice lengthwise four or five times. Holding the slices together with your fingers, cut crosswise two or three times. Let your taste buds guide your preparations. In the fruit, tawny port and brandy are good substitutes, as are cardamom and mace.